Skincare Myths That Dermatologists Wish Would Go Away

This is one of the most enduring myths in beauty, and it sounds reasonable — heat loosens things up, cold tightens them. But pores are not doors. They lack the muscle tissue required to dilate or contract. What steam does do is soften the material inside pores (like sebum and dead skin cells), making gentle cleansing temporarily more effective. Cold water may reduce the appearance of pores briefly by causing mild swelling of surrounding skin tissue, but neither treatment changes pore size in any lasting way. Pore size is largely determined by genetics and skin type.

The word "natural" carries a powerful halo effect, but it's not a safety certification. Poison ivy is natural. So are essential oils, which are among the most common causes of contact dermatitis in skincare products. Fragrances derived from botanicals, citrus extracts, and certain plant enzymes can all trigger reactions in sensitive or compromised skin. Synthetically derived ingredients, by contrast, are often formulated to precise tolerances specifically to reduce irritation risk. The ingredient list and how your skin responds matters far more than whether something grew in the ground.

It seems logical — if your skin is already producing excess oil, why add more hydration? The problem is that oil and water are not the same thing. Skin can be oily on the surface while still being dehydrated at a cellular level, often as a result of over-cleansing, harsh products, or environmental factors. When skin lacks adequate hydration, it can signal sebaceous glands to compensate by ramping up oil production. Lightweight, non-comedogenic moisturizers (meaning they're formulated to not clog pores) can help regulate this cycle rather than worsen it.

SPF values are determined in lab conditions using a specific amount of product applied to skin — roughly 2 milligrams per square centimeter. Studies consistently show that people apply significantly less foundation or powder than that amount, which means the real-world protection is a fraction of what the label suggests. Makeup with SPF can supplement a proper sunscreen routine, but it shouldn't replace one. Understanding what SPF numbers mean helps clarify what you're actually getting from different products.

Luxury packaging, exclusive marketing, and prestige brand positioning all factor into a product's price tag — but none of those things penetrate your skin. The ingredients that actually do the work (retinoids, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, vitamin C) are available across a wide range of price points. What matters is the concentration of actives, the stability of the formula, and how well the product is suited to your skin's needs. Paying more doesn't hurt, but it's no guarantee of better results.

UVB rays (the ones responsible for sunburn) are stronger in direct summer sun, which is where this myth gets its kernel of truth. But UVA rays — which penetrate more deeply into skin and are associated with photoaging and long-term cellular damage — are present at relatively consistent levels throughout the year, regardless of cloud cover, and can pass through window glass. Dermatologists recommend daily broad-spectrum SPF as a baseline habit, not just a beach-day precaution.